Monday, November 19, 2007

Excavating Czech History


I recently had the opportunity to meet with Babar Voytekova, director of the Conservation Heritage Institute of Prague (CHIP). Their Karlin neighborhood warehouse currently holds over 2000 artifacts unearthed during the construction of the recently completed Palladium Shopping Emporium.

Over shots of Slivovice, Babar explained how her team of archaeologists worked day and night for four years during the site excavation. They were first called in after the discovery of large quantities of iron cutting tools dating back to the 1800s believed to have been used for sheering sheep. One discovery gave way to the next until they had begun unearthing ruins dating back to the third millennium BC.

"We found large pieces of earthen wear with traces of fermented wheat. So we know even as far back as Roman times the Czech people were fond of beer."

"That entire quarter of Prague was believed to have once been a market. Beer and sheep were freely exchanged. So it seems quite appropriate we should have a new, modern shopping center at this same location."

Babar also explained that around the 12th century the site contained army barracks. And remains of military weaponry as well as bronze helmets and codpieces were also unearthed.

The 7.2 million crown (3.3 million USD) shopping complex is the largest of its kind in the Czech Republic, with three levels of underground parking along side an aquatic theme park. European Development Opportunities (EDO), the project's developer, has capitalized on these discoveries by incorporating them into their Design theme.

"The aqua park has a Pagan theme," Babar told me. "There are water-spinning maypoles. Talking trees. And massive stone sculptures of Apollo, Aphrodite and Kafka -- made from fiberglass, of course -- that spit water on you. Also the sauna has a pyre by which you can dry yourself and have grilled sausage."

After we were sufficiently soused on home-brew slivovice, Babar took me for a tour around the warehouse. While wandering amidst the shards of pottery and rusted iron spears, I asked Babar if this has been the largest project of its kinds she's undertaken while director of CHIP.

"So far this is the only project I've been directly in charge of," she told me. "Unless you want to count the Olsanska Food Court in Zizkov. But that was mostly dealing with old bones from the Olsanska cemetery. Nothing as interesting as this."

Babar has only been director of CHIP for the past three years. She was an interesting choice for the job, not having had any formal science training or experience in archeology. Marek Vihan, Prague's Minister of Cultural Heritage, appointed Barba to the position after the former Director of CHIP stepped down while facing corruption charges.

"It is true I don't have a lot of the technical knowledge," said Babar. "But I have worked closely with Vihan for many years on various cultural projects. I think I have a good understanding how to manage such things."

I asked Babar about reports that she had been a dancer at Darling Club Cabaret for several years.

"It is untrue," Babar flatly stated. "I only worked there four years."

She did not, however, deny that her association with Vihan goes back to that time. Or that she had gone directly from being a club hostess to the top position at CHIP.

"I have faced a lot of criticism because I am a woman and because I come from outside the academy. But I think my background is an asset, not a liability. I am able to look at problems and solutions in a fresh light."

Our tour of the warehouse ended in a room with some of the relics first unearthed during the excavation. These were relatively quite recent artifacts and antiques, including many tools, packaging and electric equipment from Prague's Soviet era. Babar singled out one particularly commonplace radio, not unlike many of the old Tesla radios you can see lining the walls of pubs in Zizkov.

"When we discovered this radio, buried beneath tons of sledge and debris, we were amazed that it was still functioning. "

Several members of the team reported that they actually heard old Czechoslovak Radio broadcasts emanating from ancient tube radio. "I believe they heard Studencheskaya zastolnaya," said Babar. "It is a famous Russian drinking song that my parents used to sing when they were young."